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Daycare in Soweto informal settlement

  

IMG_0829Originally uploaded by samclem

This is a section in Soweto where more than 60% of the people do not have jobs and people live in tin shacks with shared water spigots and bathrooms.  The respectful term is ‘informal settlement,’ the ‘less respectful’ term is shantytown.  Crime is rampant in these neighborhoods, not only for the visitors, but also for the residents.  However, in this particular area, there is a deal between the residents and the tour guides. 

Since tourists want to see real life in Soweto, the residents have made the area safe in exchange for tips.  How they worked this deal out with the criminals is unclear, but I got out of the van and talked down the street alone with my guide, bought cokes for all, visited the day care in the photo, and then interviewed my guide and two other young guys who live in the area.  Note the sign on the fence of the day care declaring it a ‘gun-free zone.’ (I wonder what the NRA would have to say about THAT!)

I had a great conversation with the guys.  What is the biggest problem for South Africa right now?  Guess what?  Illegal immigration!!  (from Zimbabwe). 

I asked the young men what single thing would have the greatest impact in improving their lives.  One said he would really like to get a driver’s license, because it would enable him to get a job as a driver. The problem is that to get a license you have to attend driving school, which is prohibitively expensive.

A driver’s license.

These are articulate, thoughtful, engaging young men who are as deserving of any opportunity that anyone else has.

I also asked them if they are optimistic for the future. For the first time during the conversation, they fell silent. And one of them, after a pause, said ‘no, I am not.’ Lack of opportunity, problems with drugs brought into the country, and daily violence take their toll.

South Africa is an incredibly beautiful country. But the contrast between the beauty and the pain is sharp, and took my breath away.